Here are a few snapshots of the pond.
The Whole Pond – You can see how shady it is under the bradford pear tree.
a close up of the falls
a side shot showing the water lilies blooming and the hyacinth beginning to grow in the veggie filter and one of the Mugo Pines.
Whether you own a garden puddle or extra large swimming pool for koi there are some things to consider when it comes to filtration. This article will not discuss which filter is best/worst but will hopefully help you narrow down your selection from the wide range of choices available, including creating one yourself.
1. What is being filtered?
Is this an all-in-one filter designed for Mechanical separation, biological nitrification, and chemical filtration? OR is this merely a single filtration unit in a system or group? You must determine the scope and size requirements of any filter you consider adding to your pond and assess its strengths and weaknesses within your system.
2. Is the filter designed for your pond or something else? Example: I once considered purchasing centrifugal separator filters that were designed for water purification. But upon further research I found they would clog with algae. Sometimes we pond owners also turn to pool industry products like bead filters. You must carefully research such items since their design assumes a low algae, high chlorine environment and so heavy dirt removal and nitrification are not really what they were designed for. We pond owners are often the targets of exaggerated claims by manufacturers too about the capacity of their products. Will that 12″x 10″ barrel with a 9 watt UV bulb really clean your 2000 gallon pond?
3. What is your budget? And more importantly what is the value of the pond and fish you are filtering? It is often said we are really water keepers rather than fish keepers so we could potentially spend more on the filters than the fish we keep. Some inexpensive to build DIY filters may perform as well as professionally produced products but may not be as attractive in the landscape.
4. For mechanical filtration – How small a particle are you trying to remove with the filter under consideration? Determine which types of filters are best suited for that particle size. If there is much debris in the pond from overhanging trees you will have more debris to remove than if the pond is indoors.
5. How often will you maintain the filter realistically? Maintenance can be easy or difficult to get the filter to like new condition. Also does the maintenance need to occur so regularly that you can not go on vacation?
6. Does the design of the filter allow for a thorough cleaning, or does backwashing leave a build up of potentially dangerous sludge. One fault that most equipment dealers will not point out is the amount of debris that remains in your filter during a normal cleaning. Bead filters may run clear during backwash but still contain a full inch of muck inside harboring bad bacteria. Other systems may seem clear after backwashing too, but until you remove the media you can not see the hidden dirt. Gravel bog filters are probably the best at trapping solids but are also the hardest to clean.
7. Can you see into the filter to determine when it needs to be cleaned? Many pond owners will allow their filters to run until they slow the water down due to sludge build up. It is important to regularly remove the K1, brushes, matting, or other components to insure the cleanliness of the filter.
8. How much water can flow through the filter when clean vs filthy? If your filter is a mat or sponge type it will slow water down as it fills with debris. It will also be less effective at both mechanical and biological filtration. Certain plastic media are designed not to slow water.
9. Does the filter have any moving parts and if so are they durable? Drum filters and Sieves with floating valves come to mind as filters with moving parts that can wear out, become dislodged, or fail for other reasons.
10. Is the size of the bio filter and it’s media adequate for your pond and its flow? How large it should be is a major issue for pond owners since there is no magic formula for all types of filters. If you regularly have ammonia and nitrite spikes your filter is not large enough for bio filtration. If your water is cloudy from fine particles, you do not have adequate mechanical filtration. You can not over filter a pond but usually must consider the aesthetics and placement of the filters for the garden area. This can lead to trade offs due to size and potentially inadequate filtration.
11. What is the filter made of and can it withstand the elements over time? Many are durable plastics or fiberglass and can last for years. Less expensive items may become brittle with time. Many of the DIY barrel filters and planter filters will need to be replaced every few years.
12. What Pipe sizes do the inlets/outlets support? Pipes and hoses to and from the pond are relatively inexpensive until you get to the 3-4 inch size. For Koi ponds a generally good filter design will use gravity fed from bottom drains to the filters then pump clean water back to the pond or other system components. A filter that only supports 1″ pipe isn’t likely adequate for a 4000 gallon pond and high pump flow.
13. Will the filter be pump fed or gravity fed? The hardest thing for me to grasp was the importance of a gravity fed system. The use of a bottom drain running to an external chamber will allow most of the debris that sinks to be carried away from the pond and dumped to waste. This debris is not chopped up by the pump and is thus easier to flush away. You can have just your mechanical filters gravity fed and then pump feed bio chambers if desired. For small water gardens where the pump is submerged in the pond you will have to clean your pump box regularly to keep the water flowing. well. Gravity fed systems have far more advantages than pump fed filters but require more planning during the initial build of the pond. Gravity fed units are usually at the same height as the water level in the pond.
14. Flow and Tracking – Filters are either upflow, downflow, or horizontal flow designs. Water will take the path of least resistance and will channel through the filter unless acted upon by another obstacle such as baffles, air bubbles, matting, or other media. The goal of any mechanical filter is to provide a barrier to dirt while allowing the flow of water. Bio filters should come in contact with all water passing through the filter to operate at maximum efficiency. Do note however that most bio filters have stagnant water areas which can lead to possible poor water conditions. Horizontal flow filters have the most efficiency for media contact and water can be easily disrupted with air bubbles or media in its path, which allows for maximum nitrification.
15. The magic box – There is no perfect filter for your pond regardless of what that nice salesman at the garden center tells you. The trick is to determine what size filtration you may need for your pond, check the water parameters regularly, then make adjustments to flow rates, aeration, UV power, and other system components that help your filter do its job. You may even need to change out that lovely overhanging tree to an evergreen to reduce the debris that falls into the pond. If you can talk to other pond owners and learn from their mistakes it will help you decide which filter is best for your pond and its inhabitants.
Do keep in mind that KOI ponds differ greatly in their filtration requirements than do goldfish ponds and water gardens. Buy the appropriate equipment for your pond and you will only have to pay for it once.
I was doing a little planting around the pond this weekend and manged to cut through my electric line running to the pond. Fortunately the circuit breaker triggered immediately and didn’t shock me. While it was easy repair the electric cord it was potentially unnecessary. So for those of you planing or in the midst of building your pond please do the following.
1) Do have your electric line run to a Ground Fault Circuit (GFC).
2) Use heavy duty outdoor electric cable which can be buried rather than standard Romex.
3) Trench deep and encase your cable with plastic piping. This will protect it from accidental shovel breakage.
4) While/before you have all the trenches dug, think about areas you might want to put additional electric sockets and install them.
5) while trenching think about low voltage lighting as well and run those lines.
April 2012 Pond Conditions
04/07/2012
Water Temp 68*, Air Temp 55-75*, pH 8.0, Ammonia/Nitrates/Nitrites 0, KH, GH low.
Nasty filter clean this week but still no ammonia or green water. Algae is growing nicely on the sides which is desired.
Purchased some new plants to go along fence and moved some from front yard into back. Put some of the water plants into a nice planter atop the waterfall.
4/14/2012
Water Temp 59-62*, air temp 38-70*, pH 8.2(evening), Ammonia/Nitrates/Nitrites 0, KH, GH low.
Weather turned cool for a couple of days but the pond temp only dipped a few degrees. Water plants are beginning to grow out, string algae is growing inside pond and is clogging up the bottom filter pad.
Turned off UV to see if I get algae bloom. Water in a container with plants has turned clear so want to see if I can achieve same result without the UV.
4/20/2012
Water Temp 68*, air temp 55-75*, pH 7.9(evening), Ammonia/Nitrates/Nitrites 0, KH 30, GH 40.
Without the UV the pond was becoming greenish and cloudy, not to mention the amount of green sludge in the bottom of the filter. I turned it back on. May need to find a timer and run it 12 hours a day instead of 24. Went to Atlanta Koi club auction, did not buy any fish. Selection and quality were not as good as previous year.
4/28/2012
Water temp 62-68*, air temp 40-80*, pH 7.9, Ammonia/Nitrates/Nitrites 0, KH 30, GH 40.
It has been a weird mixed weather cold and hot week. Pond is kind of murky this week, will need to check the bottom drain to make sure it is clear. Storms have blown a bunch of debris into the pond from the overhanging trees and neighbors tall pines. Seeing bits of poop from the fish now in the filters and skimmer. Added in some peas and bread this week but they don’t really seem interested. Ordered some color enhancing food for the summer. Fish are a bit pale compared to usual brilliance. I did a mid week water dump of the filter and a double dump today, plus storms replaced some water. I would guess around 300-350 gallons changed this week about 20%.
04/28/2012 Water temp upto 72* airtemp 85*.
Garden/Pond expenses
Plants $60
Planter $30
water bill $12 / 720 Gallons.
Hikari Saki Color $59
So you have a lovely watergarden, shallow and full of plants, or are planning one, and have come to the realization that it is not the correct environment for Koi. Koi require a certain type of pond to thrive and will eat any plants you put in with them.
There are alternatives for pond fish that are just as attractive as koi and can bring as much pleasure (and hard work) as a koi pond. Shibukins, commets, and orandas are hearty goldfish species that are easy enough to find. They come in a variety of colors and can add that extra touch to the water garden. However if you want a fish similar in appearance to koi, the Japanese Wakin is a lovely breed which is shaped similarly to koi but has a split tail. It is mostly red and white so it resembles a Kuhaku. The body is deep but overall length and width is much smaller than koi. Wakin should be viewed from the top so are perfect for an in-ground pond, rather than an aquarium. They are easy to keep and are docile. Wakin will eat out of your hand. Wakin are cold hardy so can be kept in colder climates.
Water quality and filtration is a must if you want your wakin to grow large (18+ in.) and healthy . They should be fed quality low fat goldfish food , not high protein koi food, and if underfed will eat your plants, especially lilies. Giving them plenty of room to grow also helps. Plan on a minimum of 20 gallons to 50 gallons per fish. And since they are so colorful, you will need predator protection like netting or fishing wire around the pond.
Wakin are relatively rare in the U.S. So if you can breed them you may find you can offset some of your pond costs. Here in the Atlanta area you can find them at Kolkoi and Wakoola.
In thinking about various was to improve the mechanical filtration of my pond and to reduce debris entering my bio filter I have been thinking about various ways to strain the waste. Since my bottom drain is a retro fit which relies on pump suction to work, I have to put my mechanical filter after the pump. I also want something I can see into to watch for trouble and failure.
So I was thinking about strainers and building a pressurized system out of PVC but that would not be very attractive. Then I saw these lovely fiberglass planters at the garden center the other day. I started thinking about how I could modify one to be a mechanical strainer. Since these are pump fed and can not be pressurized, they will have to sit taller than by bio box, which is ok. Here is what I am thinking.
Parts list:
Planter – 36-48 inches tall
3″ bulkhead fitting for outlet pipe
3″ threaded fitting
3″ pipe
2″ bulkhead fittings for inlet and waste (2)
2″ theaded fittings (3)
2″ pipe
2″ elbows (2)
Coarse filter mat
Drill bits for the bulkeads and holes in pipe
2″ ball valves for contolling inlet flow and waste drainage. (2)
* Firberglass resin or other similar filler material.
Estimated Costs: $150-$200 USD
Notes:
The bottom of the planter needs to be large enough to fit the 3 bulkheads.
Thread the top of the bulkhead onto the pipes then push through holes in bottom.
* Since the bulkheads may stick up 1/2 inch inside the planter it may be necessary
to add some resin to the bottom of the planter to level the bottom ad make the debris go to the drain rather than sit between the bulkheads. This will also cement the bulkheads in place and prevent leaks.
You could insert the pipes into the sides if you have barrel flanges available but putting them in the bottom allows you to bury them out of sight.
Maintenance would include a daily flushing and perhaps weekly cleaning of the filter mat surrounding the outlet pipe with the garden hose.
Two of these could be connected together and fill the 2nd one with bio friendly material.
IF you have built something similar or have any comments, feel free to use the comments below to discuss this filter idea. I am not 100% sure it will work as intended.
I visited Wet Pets today for the spring opening. My intention was to go get a piece of filter matting to replace one that is falling apart but of course the fish were calling my name. I saw several that I liked including many doitsu showas. However due to budget constraints and the wife being with me I settled on a pair of showas from the AA grade tank. Below is a picture taken of them in the box and bag they rode home in just before entering their new home.
The first showa is 11 inches and was spotted by my daughter. She has a good mix of black, white, and red and has a mask over one eye and it reminded her of the Harry Potter character Mad-Eye Moody, so she has been named Mad-Eye. The second is an 8 inch hi showa which is red and black on top but has some white on the stomach and fins. For some reason my wife sees a spiderman mask pattern and so he is known as Spider-fish or Spidey. Both fish are from Ogata Koi farm in Japan. Both are a bit orange right now but I am hoping with a bit of sunshine, good food, and pond algae they will darken to a nice red over the summer. WetPets has its tanks in a hanger which limits sunlight and the fish lose some of their color. It was a nice day for a drive to the mountains and adding two fish to the collection is icing on the cake.
Other pond keeping news…
While filling the pond after cleaning today I had a heavy metal nozzle with a narrow outlet on the hose and it was spraying very hard into the water, so I went to move it. I grabbed the hose about 3 feet from the end and it rocketed up and whacked me on the nose. No broken bones but I now have a nice gash there.
March 2012 Pond Conditions Calendar
3/5/2012
water temp 42*, air temp 30-55*, pH 8.2
After a few warm days the temp in the pond reached 60* only to plummet to 40* with this weeks cold snap. It should warm up again during the week.
Not long to spring now. No ammonia or nitrates registering on tests despite feeding last week. water is sparkling clear due to lots of rain and weekly filter cleaning. Fish seem healthy.
3/8/2012
water temp 58*, air temp 45-70*, pH 8.2
Warmer days, warmer pond. Expecting rain and cool temps over weekend. Going to WetPets this weekend for spring opening sale.
3/10/2012
water temp 60*, air temp 45-70*, pH 8.2
Performed weekly filter cleaning and got a nice whack on the nose from the garden hose. Putting the air under the mats did not seem to do anything different. So I think I will keep the air above the mats so debris in the lower chamber can settle. Test strips indicate my hardness is still below 60 and that there is no ammonia or nitrates.
3/16/2012
Water temp 64-66*, air temp 55-75*, ph 7.8, Ammonia/Nitrates 0
Weather is warming up nicely and so is the pond. But of course so is the algae. While the water is clear, there is a bunch of algae in my bio filter mats, just waiting to explode I’m sure. New fish are doing well and only ended up in the skimmer once so far. Feeding small amounts of Hikari Saki multiseason food daily. Hyacinth has bloomed and died back. Waiting for the Japanese maple to leaf out. Water hyacinth are just putting on new buds and not much growth. Still looking for some watercress to put in the veggie filter. Need to do a good veggie filter clean out next weekend.
3/24/2012
Water temp 68*, Air temp 60-75*, pH 7.9, Ammonia/nitrates 0, GH,kh barely reading on test strip
Weather is warm during day and cool at night. Pollen is very high and we have had very little rain.
Filter cleanout showed tons of pollen and algae collected. I raised the grid that supports the matting another 2″ to see if I can get more settlement in the bottom and less on the mats. Pond is holding water with minimal leakage/evaporation. Lots of flower/pod debris from the tree above the pond. Water is slightly greenish but I think that is due to debris and pollen, not algae. So may need to do more frequent water change until clear again. Fish seem healthy, except for pinkish mark on the kujaku. Keeping an eye on her. Still only feeding small amounts daily. Will likely step up to 2x day this week.
3/26/2012
Water temp 68*, Air temp 60-75*, pH 8.1, Ammonia/nitrates 0, GH,kh barely reading on test strip
3/30/2012
Water temp 66*, Air temp 55-75*, pH 7.8(morning), Ammonia/nitrates 0, GH,kh barely reading on test strip
Did a mid-week water dump/refill of the box filter. Purchased new ammonia test kit but reading is either zero or between 0 and .25. There is not much color difference there. Feeding twice a day now. Fuzzy algae is growing inside the pond now and the fish are munching on it, but the string algae is not growing on waterfall rocks yet.
PLANTS: Crocus and Hyacinth have bloomed and faded already. Water Hyacinths are sprouting leaves in the veggie filter, Irises are growing in the wet tank. Japanese maple leafed out this week and it looks lovely. The Hosta has shot up a new plant and even the azaleas are trying real hard to bloom and grow (I don’t seem to have much luck with them.) Other plants have popped up in the raised bed but I’m not sure all are desired or anything I put there. The Mugo pines were struggling but I gave them a good dose of water and a little gunk from the pre-filter and they seem to have perked up.
Pond Budget
2 new fish $45 each = $90
1 filter mat $29
Water bill $14 (1290 gallons)
Ammonia Test Kit $10
I have the old pebbles from the former bog on the ground around my pump to help keep my feet from getting muddy and to facilitate drainage. Yesterday I noticed that my pond’s jets were not outputting any water, so decided to unscrew them to see what was blocking them. Somehow several pebbles had gotten into the piping and were blocking the 3/4 inch opening. I can only assume they got in there when I redid my piping last fall since there is no way they could enter through the bottom drain then pass through the pump’s leaf basket to enter the output areas. Else the fish are playing basketball and dunking them in against the current. I guess I am lucky these weren’t smaller pebbles which could have been shot out like a canon to injure one of my fish.
So as a reminder to all you pond building newbies out there (like me) , block your pipes when working on them. But also remember to remove whatever you blocked the pipe with when reassembling.
Another pond building tip: for you return lines if you plan to use jets, build it with 2″ pipes and use threaded fittings to get the size down to 3/4″ for the jet to thread into. You can then always undo the fittings then clean out the larger pipes.
I seem to clean the Waterco pre-filter about 3-4 times per year. Algae grows on the sides of the clear bottom and some sludge seems to stick to it. So I unscrew the treaded clamp that holds the top and bottom together. This usually takes a little persuasion with a rubber hammer to get it started. Then I tap gently on the clear plastic at the joint of the two halves while lifting up at the same time, until it comes apart. I then hose out as much as gunk as I can then scrub out any remaining algae on the sides.
Prefilter before cleaning:
Over the winter I had a few freezing days and the plastic valve that lets you drain the prefilter must have expanded with ice. It now leaks a little when the valve is open. I need to replace that.
